I grew up in a household obsessed with World War II and its history (My dad is an ex-navy). Much of Eastern Europe was always on my bucket list, particularly Berlin. I stayed up late at night watching the Berlin Wall fall live on TV. I didn’t understand the significance of what I was watching then, but as I’ve learned the history I’ve come to appreciate it more and more. But as I entered Berlin, I found something more than a city that was once divided and run by a brutal dictator. I found a thriving community full of rich history, culture, and vibrant art. I have seen how the people have overcome their past and thrive today building Berlin into a hip, must-visit international destination. I have seen the spirit of the people overcoming their past and building to be better and do more. My family and I went expecting one thing and coming out with a whole new appreciation of Berlin and the people of Germany.
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- Why Go as a Family
- How to Get to Berlin
- What to See And Do
- Foods to Eat
- Where to Eat
- Where to Stay
- How to Get Around
- What to Bring
- Other Important Tips
Why Go as a Family
Berlin, badly damaged in the war, doesn’t have all the huge historical beauty of Europe. But since reunification, it has become a hub of international culture and cuisine. Here in Berlin, you get access to world class museums and then can go outside and see a cathedral that is a few hundred years old while eating some of the best doner kebab from the middle east. It is also an important place if you have kids that are old enough to learn the important (and difficult) lessons of the Holocaust. With reminders on every corner, it brings up important conversations. But most importantly you can see how a city can enter those terrible depths of evil, be split for over 50 years, and then grow into a city that represents unity and triumph.
How To Get to Berlin
Berlin is a major international city connected by all the major rail lines, bus lines, and airlines. We went to Berlin from Prague and it was easy to find a direct high-speed train to the city. Here are a few ways to get into the city.
- Flying – Berlin Brandenburg Airport (BER) is the sole international airport. Opened in 2020, it is just outside the city border. Several buses and trains connect the airport to the center of the city. With German efficiency you will be in the center of Berlin in an hour or less.
- Train – There are three major train stations on Berlin, with Berlin Central being the biggest with the most connections. We arrived at this station and left out of the station with my daughter to head to Warsaw. I will admit, this is a big station and you can get easily lost. However, it is connected to all the major metro and bus lines, making it easy to get to your hotel or Airbnb once you arrive.
- Bus – FlixBus is popular in Germany and arrives at the major train stations. In addition, if there is a train cancelation, there may also be a bus bridge that will take you straight to or out of Berlin (as happened with us when leaving).
- Car – Berlin is a busy city. You can drive to Berlin but parking is limited. Make sure to check with your accommodation on parking. The city is really walkable and well connected with public transit, so you might want to think twice before driving a lot around the city.
What to Do/See
Tours
- Walking Tours – You know we love a good walking tour. We used Rick Steve’s Europe Audio App to take his free walking tour of Berlin. We took it slow, made stops at things that interested us along the way, so it took pretty much the whole day. You can also check out Free Walking Tours which generally are scheduled group tours, and while free it’s expected you tip 10 – 20€ per person at the end of the tour. You can also check with Get Your Guide for private or group tours that focus on the interest of your family.
- Food Tours – We love a good food tour. We did do a Street Food Tour of Berlin, where we got a mix of international foods. You might want to also check out the BRLO brewery tour and tasting or the Berlin Secret Food Tour which are also highly rated on Get Your Guide.
World War II History
- Topography of Terror – The former location of the SS, it has been turned into a history museum of the rise and fall of fascism. It is free to visit and comes with a free audio tour you can listen to on your phone. I will be honest; this museum is not for the faint of heart. The audio guide does not shy away from the cruelty of the gestapo, and there are graphic pictures of the torture and killings. I regretted bringing my 12-year-old. This is for your older, more mature children. Outside there is a timeline that is not as graphic and more appropriate for families.
- Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe – This is beautiful memorial to the Jews killed during the war. You start in a free museum (with an audio tour) that shows some of the writings, pictures, and stories from those lost. Then outside, you go through 19,000 square meters of concrete stones. They are of differing heights, and the aisles go up and down. It is intended to immerse the user and understand the inability to see a way out. It is peaceful after the difficult museum inside. Kids can run around here without being disrespectful as the adults ponder the deeper meaning.
- Historical location of the “Führerbunker” – Just a sign, but it shows where Hitler’s famous bunker was at the end of the war. The building was torn down to ensure that it was never able to become a pilgrimage location for support. It is now a parking lot for the surrounding office and residential buildings.
All Other History
- Brandenburg Gate – Built in the 18th century, it was the traditional gate to Berlin, where monarchs entered the city in triumph. It was also famous for seeing the Nazi parades through the gate and was in no-man’s land during the city’s separation. When the wall fell, it was the place where people gathered and started to tear down the wall, getting to the Brandenburg Gate for the first time in years. Today, all can walk up and through it, taking pictures and enjoying this historic arch once more.
- East Side Gallery – The wall dominated the landscape of Berlin for years. When it was taken down, you could see the stark difference. The East Side was blank, while on the West Side there was graffiti and art. In 1990 a project was commissioned to create murals on the East Side. You can walk 1,300+ meters of wall and see the art on both sides, both commissioned murals, and the raw art of revolution in the West.
- Berlin Cathedral – Near Museum Island, the current cathedral was built in the late 19th century but has been the spot of a religious building since the 15th century. You can enter the church to the beautiful interior and even climb the 270 stairs of the dome to see panoramic views of the city.
- Reichstag Building – The head of the government, this building was what was burned and started the sequence of events that lead to Hitler coming to power. It was abandoned during the war and afterwards during the cold war. When the country was reunited, the building was renovated and opened to the public. Now with a large glass dome, you can go to the top, and look down and see the Bundestag in session, while looking over the city. Tickets are free but must be reserved in advance and you will need to bring your passport for all members of the party. We chose a time at sunset and it was beautiful to see the sun setting over the city from up top.
- Checkpoint Charlie – The traditional entrance to the American Sector during the war, it was the busiest crossing point between the east and the west and became a symbol of the Cold War. It is still set up as it was, with the gate, and is a popular spot to take pictures. But today you can walk back and forth across the checkpoint without taking out your papers.
- Berlin TV Tower – Built in the 1960s to show off the technological prowess of communist Berlin, this beautiful tower near Alexanderplatz has stunning panoramic views of Berlin. You can also have a virtual reality adventure at the bottom, which my kids did and loved.
Museums
Museum Island, located on the Spree River, in what was once East Berlin, is known for its amazing selection of museums. You could spend your entire trip here if you want to. But there are also other museums throughout the city you can visit. Here are a few to take note of.
- Neues Museum – This natural history museum is located on Museum Island. It was heavily damaged during World War II and resorted to its glory in the ’80s. If you purchase the audio tour, you can learn not only about the exhibits but also about the history of the building. The jewel of its exhibit is the bust of Nefertiti, a painted stucco bust in almost perfect condition, of the wife of the pharaoh Akhenaten. It is worth the visit.
- German Historical Museum – We went in 2024, as the museum was being shut down for two years for renovations. However, they do have temporary exhibits open to the public that rotate. The exhibits are interactive with some designed to be more inclusive of families and young children. I talked with the curator who said this is the direction the museum plans to go in the future, so it will definitely be worth a visit when it reopens in 2026.
- Pergamon Museum – This museum, on Museum Island, underwent renovations in the early 2010s and now holds three wings of art, cultural artifacts, and archaeological finds, form the Islamic People, the Ancient Near East, and Classical Antiquities. It is one of the most popular museums in the city, so get your tickets early.
- The Wall Museum – This little museum is right at the end of the East Side Gallery. A multi-media museum, you go through a few rooms and learn about the wall, what life was like on both sides, and when it came down. There are interviews and stories from those who tried to cross, and those who succeed (and failed). There are also stories from guards and regular citizens. In the last room you get to watch the coverage of the wall coming down, and you experience the powerful emotions of that moment in history.
Outdoor Spaces
- Tiergarten – Former Hunting Grounds for the elite, it now constitutes a large urban park for the residents. Just walking distance from the Reichstag and Brandenburg Gate, it is a beautiful place to walk and enjoy nature while not being far from the city. The park today has the home of the German President, several memorials, and the famous Victory Column which commemorates the Prussian victory in the Second Schleswig War.
Foods to Eat
- Currywurst – A common fast food is all over Berlin. Its sausage covered with ketchup and curry power, generally served with fries. You eat the sausage then dip the fries in the remaining curry ketchup. I enjoyed it, but if you are expecting a curry taste…do not.
- Bratwurst– A common Germany sausage, you can expect to get it most any German restaurant or even being sold off a grill a person carries in Alexanderplatz.
- Beer – Germany is known for its beer. Make sure to find a beer hall and get the bartenders’ recommendation for a local beer.
- Chocolate – There are tons of chocolate shops all over the city. Find one with a café and get a delectable thick hot chocolate or some boozy candy.
- Doner Kabab – People all over Germany love this traditionally Mediterranean food. However, instead of in a pita, like you traditionally find other Mediterranean restaurants, Berliners will often get it on a roll or bread and eat it like a sandwich.
Where to Eat
- Rausch Schokoladenhaus – What an amazing local chocolate shop near Checkpoint Charlie. You can go into the shop and buy individual confections, bars, or pre-mixed boxes. Or you can go to the third floor and sit in the café for some delectable hot drinking chocolate and/or a fancy dessert. If you go to the second floor, there is a display on how chocolate is grown, cultivated, and made into the candy they sell. And, if they are working, you can see the pastry chefs making the treats!
- Charlie’s Beach – This is more of a collection of smaller vendors then one restaurant. But they have all different street foods, a bar, and lots of seating, and even sand to give it the beachy feel. It is steps from Checkpoint Charlie. The only issue is that most of these places only take cash, but there is an ATM conveniently located nearby.
- Restaurant Maximilians Berlin – A traditional Bavarian restaurant with large liters of beer, different sausage, and meat heavy dishes. Everything tasted amazing.
- Der Alte Friz – A German restaurant near the Berlin TV Tower, the portions are large and the food is good. A great place to get a meal if you are in the area.
- Fritten Werk – While it does sell some other food, you come here for the fries and churros. In Alexanderplatz, you can order all sorts of loaded fries and different dips. They also have churros with all different toppings. And mom and dad can enjoy some beer or wine. This is a must-see afternoon snack stop.
- Mundo Tapas Bar– Berlin is an international city, so expect good international options. My favorite was the Mundo Tapas Bar. We went on my birthday and had quite a meal to celebrate. There were all the traditional tapas, and we finished off with Crema Catalan. There was also live music (it was a Friday night) giving this place a lively feeling.
Where to Stay
If you are looking for a nice hotel, all the boutiques and chain hotels you have loyalty to are here. But with a family, I would say a vacation rental or Airbnb might be your best bet for space and comfort. We were in the Mitte area, which was close to everything and had great restaurants. But our apartment did not have a washer/dryer and there were not any laundromats nearby so keep that in mind. Also note that air conditioning is not common and it can get hot in the summer.
How to Get Around
Berlin has managed to make public transit so accessible; it is hard to get a car to get anywhere. Options are plentiful and near every site you want to see. I highly recommend parking the car and only using public transit. It is important to note, you must purchase AND validate your ticket before getting on the train. If you do not, there is a steep fine. Google Maps has all the schedules and can help you find the right route via public transit.
- S Ban – Often known as the above-ground, this is a system of light rail trains. These trains tend to be less frequent and have longer distances between stops. But they can be faster when going between ends of the city.
- U Ban – This is the traditional underground metro. These have many stops, run longer hours, and have frequent stops.
- Busses and Trams – Berlin also has a series of busses and trams, however we honestly never needed one as we were often right near a U-Ban or S-Ban station.
- Walking – Berlin is an extremely walkable city with very few hills. We often found ourselves walking if the train were more than 10 minutes away because it would be just as fast.
- Uber – Uber is available in Germany. It is not necessary but nice if you have kids with little legs and you are just done for the night. We also used it to get from the train station with all our luggage just to make our life easier. Often for our family, it was 12 – 13 € which was the same cost as the four of us on the metro.
What to Bring
- Comfortable Shoes for Walking – As I mentioned, Berlin is a walkable city. We often just walked from place to place and ended up walking several miles a day. I did the whole trip in my Bob’s Slip in Sketchers with memory foam. My entire family loves Sketchers Go Walk Sneakers.
- Selfie Stick/Tripod – I am always nervous about hanging my phone to a stranger to take our family picture. I have found that the selfie stick, while annoying, can get in the whole family with a nice background in the distance. But I really like this Self-Stick/Tripod, that allows you to set up your phone with a tripod so you can take pictures from a distance with a Bluetooth remote, and it does not feel as intrusive as a selfie stick.
- A Good Day Bag – You need a bag that will carry all the essentials for the day (hand sanitizer, your phone and wallet, snacks, etc.) I used the Pincnel backpack. A few days into the trip, my shoulder injury started to act up, but my oldest had no issues carrying the bag for the family.
- Handheld Fan – Berlin was hot in the summer. We ended up being there during a heat wave. I saw many with these portable neck fans and I wished I had one. If you can find one, and are going to anywhere in Europe this summer, bring it.
Other Important Tips
- Berlin is priced like a Central European City – I know this may be common sense, but it surprised us. After a few weeks in Poland and the Czech Republic, we had a little bit of sticker shock. Be prepared to pay the same prices you would see in Paris, Barcelona, etc.
- Do not come to Berlin for German Food – Do not get me wrong, you will find good German Food. But it is a much more international city. You will also find a lot of Spanish, Italian, Asian, etc. That is great if you have picky eaters. If you want good German Food, get out of the city and in the rest of the country.
- World War II and Communist History is Heavy Here – The Germans have made a point of making sure to teach its residents about the horrors of the war and separation. There are memorials and museums everywhere. And they do not shy away from telling the brutal truth. While I agree that this is important, it turned many times too heavy for my 14- and 12-year-old. At some point, we gave them an out as they were getting overwhelmed with feeling. Especially since we went to a Concentration Camp earlier in the trip. Be aware of how your individual child deals with this when visiting.
Berlin is a beautiful, international city rich with history, culture, and tons of food options. With easy public transit, a plethora of parks, and museums and activities for all ages, this is a great place for families. While I think families with older kids will get more from the history, especially World War II and Communism, I believe families with younger kids can still find activities and history that will more closely suit your little ones need. Germany has a deep history long before the World Wars and you can learn all about it through many of its museums and monuments. The food scene is great for all ages and families will find themselves welcome everywhere with open arms. Berlin is one of the world class cities you need to check off in your lifetime.
Edited by SKS
* Starred Photos taken by Atma Photography